Refined: 1970s French style in fall-winter collections
Designers cite the French style of the 1970s – with an eye on the healthy appetites of an international audience.
At the show of the Celine fall-winter collection, the creative director of the house, Edie Slimane, brought out the fashion formula of the season. Sliman's talent is that he can change the course of the fashion industry using familiar images and understandable associations. This time, the designer showed small leather jackets, culottes under boots with a wide top, blouses and silk scarves in a classic monogram. All this in about the same combinations we have already seen somewhere. The main question of the season: so what?
Salvatore Ferragamo fall-winter 2019/2020
In this feeling, deja vu is the whole revolution of his ideas. While other designers cut the trench coats into flaps, turn the eco-fur over and try to reconcile the multi-colored and different-sized shelves of the jacket in one streetstyle-friendly pantsuit, Slimane deliberately refuses unnecessary experiments with clothes. And creates things that you just really want to wear.
Celine collection – with the right provenance and noble registration. She's not about LA skaters and lost Hollywood starlets, which the designer sang just recently. Celine's new choice is about the traditional Parisian chic and bourgeois prosperity of the inhabitants of the 16th arrondissement, their workdays in the Ottoman quarters and leisurely shopping on Faubourg-Saint-Honor. Such, albeit only with a bit of historical authenticity, it is customary to represent wealthy French fashionistas: in full parade, walking in their Parisian life.
Burberry Fall-Winter 2019/2020
In a global market, this technique makes sense. In the Celine collections, Slimane celebrates the bourgeois style, familiar to us from the classic photographs of Guy Bourdin and Helmut Newton from the 1970s. Clients in New York, Kiev and Shanghai are delighted to try on the “new” refined Parisian look – just like the usual Chanel tweed jackets and Saint Laurent black tuxedos. The vintage aftertaste of the new Celine collections makes them understandable to the mind and pleasing to the eye, which dooms commercial success.
The classic bourgeois plots are guided by Riccardo Quiet in Burberry. Examining the dress codes of modern Britain, he opens the show with a series of youth clothes, but in the end the London establishment wins. The designer showed strict beige macs and trench coats, a-line skirts worn with silk blouses with scarves and starched shirts with neatly tied ties. On the Burberry catwalk, models Mariacarla Boscono and Natalya Vodianova were the living embodiment of super women from Mayfair, for whom perfect everyday manicure is as important as signing a multi-million dollar contract in the City.
Lacoste fall-winter 2019/2020
Luisa Trotter, the new creative director of Lacoste, marks the strict classic dress code and bonton. She showed her love for chiseled trouser deuces and a perfectly tailored coat during her work at Joseph and now applies signature techniques on French soil. Having started the renovation of the classic sports brand, Trotter reinterprets traditional polos in the debut collection for Lacoste, adding strict outerwear and a costume group: leather coats with raglan sleeves and trousers of warm sand tones with ironed arrows.
Everything about Parisian chic is known by the creative director of the Hermès women's division, Nadezh Vane-Tsybulsky. The designer disowns the bourgeois agenda in his fall-winter collection, but the sensuality of straight-cut cashmere coats, leather dresses with prim 7/8 sleeves and pencil skirts is about the same place where the heroines of the Paris Vogue of the 1970s lived – from Avenue Foch and Georg V.
Herme fall-winter 2019/2020
Such a prosperous (and what to hide, rich) life usually takes place somewhere in parallel reality, hiding behind the facades of five-star hotels and closed Instagram profiles. Seeing her on the podium is unexpected, but logical. Collections based on the bourgeois fashion of the 1970s have an inalienable plus. In a turbulent world where changing the application algorithm on an iPhone can turn the world economy around and change the course of elections, they work on the principle of a lifebuoy – they create an illusory sense of security. Perfectly tailored suits, blouses with scarves and impeccably sitting trench coats in the minds of clients serve as a pass to a quiet sheltered harbor of good taste. Welcome!
Text: Venia Brykalin
Sheepskin coat guide autumn-winter 2019/2020
. (tagsToTranslate) trends fall-winter 2019/2020 (t) bourgeois style (t) french style 1970s